A history of Mauritania

"Where is Mauritania?" That is the most common question I hear when I talk to people about my trip. My response is pretty standard: It's on the north west coast of Africa, above Senegal. They pretend to know what I cam talking about. But they really don't know where Mauritania is. I pretend to think that they will Google it when they get to a computer. It's doubtful they will know how to spell it. Even I have to concentrate on it when I spell it out.

Since I hope to produce a video in the style of Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations and Andrew Zimmern's Bizarre Foods, I needed to get my act together and do some research about the nation of Mauritania.

Mauritania is one of the most dramatic countries in North Africa. While it is almost medieval in appearance and lifestyles, it is also described as modern.

With such contrary descriptions it is possible that Mauritania is one of the most mysterious countries in the world.

Mauritania is located in the Western Sahara desert. The climate ranges from hot to warm. I decided to keep track of the weather online. Lucky for me it is NOT humid, until it rains and then humidity becomes a welcome change.

It's borders include Morocco, Mali, Senegal, and Algeria. It's coast line dips into the Atlantic Ocean.

The southern part of Mauritania was once part of the Ghana empire. In 1000 AD the Berbers settled in the northern area. European adventurers arrived in the 15th century. The French influence overtook the original people of the land until Mauritania gained independence in 1960.

Arabic and French are the primary languages spoken among a majority of the people. Virtually all Mauritanians are Sunni Muslims.

From all reports that I have received from friends and family the people of Mauritania are kind and generous. For the most part they welcome people from other parts of the world with warmth and hospitality.

The more I read about this country and the people who live there, the more I realize that I know very little about the land that my brother has chosen to call home.

I can't wait to smell and taste Mauritania. To experience the people and see the sights for myself. I'll do my best to share with you what I experience. But I know that to get the fullness of Mauritania you will need to go there yourself.

Camels

I am an equestrian. As a younger woman I rode quite a bit. For 2 years I managed a camp horse program. It was heaven. The work was hard, but the rewards far outweighed the effects of the strain on my body.

Riding horses is just one aspect of being an equestrian. For me the grooming and cleaning is just as exhilarating. Each horse has a unique personality. Horses, for the most part, want to have a relationship with their 'owners.' Trained (and treated) properly they will behave in similar ways to a dog.

I really don't know much about camels except that they are stubborn and they spit. Baby camels are just precious and cute, but from what I see, they grow up into obnoxious creatures.

And yet, in parts of the world, camels are raised for all kinds of things: transportation, heavy hauling and food. I know that I will be able to see lots of camels in Mauritania. I am also going to have the chance to EAT camels in Mauritania.

Camel hump, properly prepared, is apparently a delicious culinary experience. As I have mentioned in a previous posting, I love gelatinous and gristley food. While watching "No Reservations" with Anthony Bourdain, I was told that camel meat is rather tasty. Or at least Mr. Bourdain liked it. I'll let you know in January what I discover for myself.

According to Wikipedia there are 14 million Dromedary (one hump) camels living mainly as domesticated livestock around Somalia, Sudan and Mauritania. There are fewer Bactrian (two hump) camels around the world, mainly China, Mongolia, and Australia.

One of my favorite movies is "The Story of the Weeping Camel." It's a wonderful story about a family in the Gobi region of Mongolia. After a difficult birth a mother camel rejects it's baby causing the family to intercede to keep this calf alive. Not only do you learn about the people of this region, but the ending is very moving. It's not an action film, but I highly recommend it on so many levels. (My family makes fun of my enthusiasm for this film.)

So on a couple different levels I am looking foward to meeting some camels: up close and personal. I also look forward to tasting the meat, and hump, and drinking the milk, which is said to have curative powers if the camel eats certain plants. And....it can be an aphrodisiac. :)

I am most looking foward to riding a camel. (You got this, Paul?) Given their stubborn nature, I am not certain that they will be like riding a horse.

Then my sister sent me this video. I am rethinking my assumptions. :)

But still looking forward to meeting one of these fascinating creatures.

Lambs and Sheep ~ Goats and Kids

At the age of 9 years old I became a member of 4-H.

"I pledge my head to clearer thinking.
My heart to greater loyalty.
My health to better living and my hands to larger service for my club, my community, my country and my world."

At first I was involved in the sewing and cooking aspect of the local club. I made cakes and sewed prize winning aprons. (I still have the apron....somewhere.)

But soon my parents agreed that I would raise a lamb. I named my first lamb 'Puffy.'

Puffy was sold at the San Diego County fair that year. As tears of sadness streamed down my face the price per pound went higher and higher. Who wouldn't want to buy a lamb from a cute, crying, blond 9 year old? At least I didn't have to worry about eating my precious pet.

Each year I purchased another lamb in the early spring. In 4-H you attend classes that help you know what to do to train your lamb and prepare it for show. What they DON'T prepare you for is the fact that lambs become lamb chops so I really never put the two together. Sure I was selling my lamb to the highest bidder but surely the buyer was taking my cute little pet home to his or her family to love and enjoy at much as I had over the last few months.

Oregon became my home once I hit adolescence. 4-H was a lot different in Oregon. And although I added equine to my repertoire of 4-H animals I did not lose my interest in raising sheep. In fact, in high school I purchased a ewe that I ended up having bred and she delivered a fine set of twins that first spring.

Living in the country with four kids our parents felt that we should expand our barnyard. My brothers acquired hogs and we added some goats as well.

I should really ask my mom about this but at some point she decided we should start eating our menagerie. I am sure I objected to the family feasting on my precious little lambs but I don't remember exactly how these protests occured.

What I do remember is hauling the goats and extra lambs to market. Some days later returning to pick up frozen, white paper wrapped packages marked 'veal.' Now today, I would not be so eager to eat veal. But back then, my ignorance and naivete clouded my thinking and better judgement.

I am sure I partook of those pieces of meat. In fact, I know I did. Thinking they were veal: whatever the heck veal was...is.

My memory does not render an explanation, but somehow (this is what I need to ask my mom) I discovered that those white, paper wrapped packages of veal were actually my precious little lambs. You might be shocked to think that a mother was trick her children in such a manner. Trust me: this is normal for my mom.

But somehow, despite the deceit, along the way I discovered that I liked lamb.

Lamb meat is good. In fact, 'mutton' is good! Goat is good! I am most definitely a carnivore. I love the strips of fat that are attached to lovely pieces of meat. I love the word gelatinous and the texture of it in my mouth attached to various cuts of meat. As I child I cleaned a drumstick clean, even biting off the tips to get to the bone marrow.

I LOVE it when Andrew Zimmern and Anthony Bourdain talk about eating meat that has a gelatinous texture with sinuous membranes and connective tissue - although it does make me very hungry. I've had it before and I want it again: braised bone marrow. Yum!

Here is a list of foods with sinuous membranes and connective tissue:

• Chicken wings
  
• Tendons
  
• Fatty flank
  
• Cartilage
  
• Shank
  
• Hock joints
  
• Beef fat
  
• Pork fat
  

It's all good to me.

Now take a long look at the picture of the head of this goat or sheep. Even though I love the idea of eating the parts of this head - cooked - each piece of connective tissue and cartilage, the sight of this animal uncooked, staring me straight in the eye is going to be tough for me.

But this is what I have to look foward to when Ruth and I go to Nouakchott. I'll admit that while I love the idea of eating parts of an animal that are considered rubbish at my local grocery store, I think I will have a hard time dealing with seeing the animal go from hoof to fire pit - or however they cook it. If it looks at me, I'll have trouble.

I'm just saying: I'm gona enjoy the experience but it may be wrought with complexities associated with my love of animals. But I'll pledge my best to find favor with the people who host me. That's the least this old 4-H-er can do. :)

Discovering Mauritanie

Over the last 25 years I have dreamed of Africa. Of course, I would love to see the plains of the Serengeti and all the wildlife that inhabits that part of the continent. But there is so much more to Africa. Africa: the word alone conjurs up images that do not vaporize once the traveler has returned home. I dream....of the sights, the sounds, the smells and the tastes of Africa.

Yet the sights of Africa are only one part of the dream. For the last 25 years I have dreamt of visiting my brother, Paul. Vicariously I have visited him through the lives of others: my husband, my other brother, my daughter, my friend Ruth. I've seen the pictures and heard the stories. I've watched videos with the sounds of the people who reside in such a unique part of the world.

Two of my favorite television shows are 'Anthony Bourdain's - No Reservations' and 'Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern.' These two men discover the world through regional foods. I have always hoped to have a similar adventure. To discover the passions and culture of a people through the food they prepare - for sustanance and festival.

Last week I purchased an airplane ticket to visit my brother in Nouakchott.

Remember my friend, Ruth? She and I will be traveling together. Our destination: Equinoxe Centre.

This blog will be a journal of the journey.

I regret that you will only witness the sights through pictures and words. If you want to get the full course, you'll have to make a reservation for yourself.

In the meantime, come along for the ride. Live vicariously through me. I welcome the company.